And the Chardonnay wins!

The last time I had a match made in heaven between Jura Chardonnay and roast chicken was in Vincelles, the home town of L'Aigle à Deux Têtes, and the chicken was real Bresse Chicken, a beautiful 2+kg bird roasted by none other than our host Henri Le Roy, amateur chef and vigneron de L'Aigle. This time, it was at home, the chicken was from Whole Foods, and the wine was the newly arrived 2013 Chardonnay (and Pinot Noir) from L'Aigle, but the taste experience was equally incredible. Kudos to all concerned (except me, I'm not much of a food photographer). That's my son Wil making a reappearance, who loved the pairing as well.

Re: Ella agrees - Lunatique is crazy good!!

A magnum of Lunatique a day keeps the doctor away!

What a cutie! :-)

Thkm

Ella agrees - Lunatique is crazy good!!

La Palazzetta di Luca e Flavio Fanti

The irrepressible Flavio Fanti is a fortunate man indeed. Both his son Luca and his daughter Tea have, in their early twenties, eagerly embraced the family's farming activities, and have become indispensable members of the hardworking, well-oiled machine that is La Palazzetta. Their Brunellos continue to astonish me and other tasters with abundant, deep fruit and intoxicating, complex aromatics. I was there last week with several customers who snapped up our current inventory of 2007 Riserva faster than you can say Sangiovese (a few more cases will be on the way soon). 

Flavio's paradigm is simple, like that of many of our other growers: hard work in the vineyards pays handsomely. And with old-vine vineyards of mixed galestro and ferrous, calcareous material, and with the usually warm, dry summers of their southerly location near Castelnuovo dell'Abate, the family is blessed with 20 hectares (about 50 acres) of amazing grape-growing potential. Get yourself some 2009 or 2010 Brunello from La Palazzetta and dish up some Cinghiale con Papardelle or even better, a beautiful grilled beefsteak, and it will be easy to imagine yourself basking in the Tuscan sun, not a care in the world. I promise. 

It was pretty crazy and hair-raising to watch Luca Fanti backing down the steep, rutted driveway with a very full pallet order for us that happened to be scheduled for pickup the day we left. Fortunately he aced it, and Hillebrand made the pickup without anyone breaking a sweat (except me as I watched breathless). Nick Y, those are your magnums, and 3 and 5 liters of 2010 Brunello on top of the pallet. 

Castello di Torre in Pietra

Visiting the ancient, pastoral estate at Castello di Torre in Pietra feels like taking a step back in time. All around is tranquil, verdant loveliness - so close, but in many ways so far, from the beautiful chaos of Rome. The ancient long-horned cattle - the breed is called Maremmana, from Maremma - still graze in pastures fenced in wood. Hillsides are covered in cypress and pine. Nature bursts from every vista. 

From the point of view of wine production, Lazio has never enjoyed the renown of many other appellations in Italy, even if generations of tourists to Rome fall in love with Frascati, or Est! Est!! Est!!! - simple white wines that can certainly be pleasing, but rarely great. But there is a new DOC in town...and it carries the name of the great city that lies just to the east. Roma DOC comes in rosso and bianco. The white is made from Malvasia Puntinata, or Malvasia di Lazio, although Bombino Bellone or Trebbiano Verde are also permitted. The red features Cesanese along with Montepulciano and Sangiovese. These are easy drinking, delicious wines, best consumed in a local osteria, in big gulps, with generous quantities of good and simple fare. 

Filippo Antonelli, the proprietor of the estate, is friendly, curious and smart. His line includes not only the Roma wines, but a delicious, spritzy white from Fiano, made with no additions of sulfur, a spumante made in small quantities, mainly for local celebrations at the Cantina, and a pair of simple but delicious blends named for the wooly mammoth, whose remains were found when the tunnel between the old cantina and the newer was excavated - Elephas. The damn nazis, leaving Italy in a hurry, ran off and stole the fossilized mammoth tusk that was part of the collection. A femur still remains on the property.